4.0. Application of industrial engineering in blazer

https://doi.org/10.30574/gjeta.2021.9.1.0136 Abstract This paper is being developed in Blazer on industrial engineering. In the last few decades, the global economy, in particular in international commerce and manufacturing organizations, has evolved substantially. The technical framework of today is thus distinguished by productivity-oriented, which can be accomplished by industrial engineering. This paper presents the different principles & approaches used in industrial engineering, such as time analysis, work studies, line balancing and the outcome of organizational disintegration tests in Blazer. This research has focused on several kinds of machinery to produce a Blazer. The traditional manufacturing industry has issues such as low efficiency, longer lead time, high rework & re-work, poor line balance, low style shift flexibility, etc. The implementation of Industrial Engineering correctly resolved these issues. This study looks at how to develop Blazer's processes by using Industrial Engineering, wasting less resources, time, raw materials, human capital and


Introduction
The garment manufacturing industry faces many global challenges due to various factors including competition, increased production costs, less productivity/efficiency and labor attribution. So, there is a need to focus and concentrate on identifying the real issues, taking corrective actions suited to the specific industrial center of the unit, empowering the technical and managerial staff by enhancing their knowledge and ability, analyzing orders efficiently and deciding whether actions are viable for the company. The world economy has changed in significant ways during the past several decades, especially in the areas of international trade and industrial organization. Two of the most important new features of the contemporary economy are the globalization of production and trade [1]. Therefore today's technological systems are characterized by orientation to productivity; this can be achieved through the apparel engineering. This paper introduces the various concepts and methods that have been used in Industrial Engineering as a part of Apparel Engineering in Garment industries. Generally, Industrial Engineering is defined an approach applied to all factors, including human factor involved in the production & distribution of production and services. Now we can define Industrial Engineering (IE) as, Industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge and skill in the technical, economics and human sciences, either with the principles or methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such system. The objectives of the industrial engineering and engineering management program are to produce [2]: Contribute to the success of companies through effective problem solving • Design, develop, implement, and improve integrated systems that include people, materials, information, equipment, and environments • Effectively manage business operations and project management teams • Continue to develop holistically, including the personal and professional skills necessary to adapt to our changing societal, technological, and global environments • The industrial engineering and engineering management program are expected to meet the challenges for contemporary professional practice; be able to adapt and Solve the increasingly complex problems faced by industry; embrace innovation through intellectual diversity and creative problem solving; and continue to develop holistically as a learner to become leaders of tomorrow responsibilities of IE [3]:

Literature Review
The sartorial term blazer originated with the red "blazers" of the Lady Margaret Boat Club (1825), the rowing club of St. John's College, Cambridge. The Lady Margaret club jackets were termed blazers because of the bright red cloth, and the term survived the original red coat. A writer to the London Daily News (22 August 1889) commented that "In your article of to-day … you speak of 'a striped red and black blazer', 'the blazer', also of 'the pale toned' ones … A blazer is the red flannel boating jacket worn by the Lady Margaret, St. John's College, Cambridge, Boat Club. When I was at Cambridge it meant that and nothing else. It seems from your article that a blazer now means a colored flannel jacket, whether for cricket, tennis, boating, or seaside wear. These early blazers were like later sports jackets, but this term has never referred to blazers, instead describing jackets derived from the later innovation of wearing odd jackets for landbased sports. Assertions that the name is derived from HMS Blazer are not borne out by contemporary sources, although it is reported that before the standardization of uniform in the Royal Navy, the crew of HMS Blazer wore "striped blue and white jackets", [2] apparently in response to the sailors of HMS Harlequin being turned out in harlequin suits.
[3] As late as 1837 the gig's crew of HMS Blazer were dressed by their Captain in jackets of blue and white stripes and it is from this that the word blazer, meaning a striped jacket, has entered the language. [4] The reefer jacket was of naval origin, and described the short double-breasted jacket worn by sailors in harsh weather, when they performed duties such as reefing the sails. It is descendants of this which are now commonly described by the term blazer. Originally with black horn buttons, these jackets evolved to the modern dark blazer, now single as well as double breasted, and with metallic buttons.
. [5] By the late 2000s the blazer had been adopted as a popular fashion trend amongst women, often having shorter lengths, rolled-up sleeves, various lapels and bright colors. Striped blazers became popular among British Mods in the early 1960s, and again during the Mod revival of the late 1970s -particularly in three-color thick/thin stripe combinations, with three-button single-breasted front, five-or six-inch side or canter vents, and cuffs with multiple

Best Blazers in black color for men & women
Here few type of blazers in black which can be worn differently according to situations as shown in Fig 1.. Then don't forget to carry your black blazer with you. Going out with friends for a brunch or attending a wedding after work?

2 Button Single Breasted Black Blazers
2 button single breasted black blazers is an American style blazer as shown in Fig. 2. It has a center vent. It mostly has notched labels with either a flapped pocket or patched pocket. It is a bit boxy in fit. It is more casual. It can be worn with denim without much hesitation [8].

3 Button Single Breasted Black Blazers
3 Button single-breasted Black Blazer for men has 3 buttons as shown in Fig. 3. It is known for its amazing fit. It is an English style blazer. It is preferred to be single-breasted and will make you look like a tree trunk. It emphasis on shoulders and chest [9]. It is easy to dress down with it

6 Button Double Breasted Black Blazers
6 Button double-breasted black blazers have its origin from the British Royal Naval Army as shown in Fig. 4. It was made by the Navy Commander, H M S Blazer to impress Queen Victoria. He made it and fitted it with copper buttons. It is made double-breasted to give the right fit and protect from the chilly breeze [10].

Men's Slim-Fit Black Blazers
Slim fit black blazer for men is the modern-day fit. It is body-hugging. It is less boxy and straighter. It is mostly made up of linen. Women and men wear this style. It is a casual style. If you are taking a flight, or out for a Sunday brunch, then this is the right style for you. Many men wear it with ease. You can even team it with shorts [11].

Wool Black Blazer for Men
Wool is the most preferred choice in blazers as shown in Fig.5. It is soft and warm. You can weave it according to your needs. It serves the purpose to protect you from chilly weather. Mostly they come with self-print in the form of stripes. It is a traditional choice of material. If you want to go for both official and informal purposes and yet need to get protected from harsh winters, there is nothing better than this one. [12]

Linen black Blazers in Men's Fashion
In India, summers are very hot and humid. In this temperature, if you want to look stylish by sporting blazer then choose black linen blazer. Since it is made of linen, it is breathable and soft. It soaks sweat. It is also softer than woolen blazers. You can wear them to the beach or day outing without worrying about the temperature [13].

Formal Black Blazers in Silk:
Going to a big party or high-end dinner, then black silk blazer is your style. It is very rich to look at. It gives you a good fit because silk shapes up easily. Mostly the lining underneath is satin to give a shine. You can wear it with smart pants to give it a contrast look and tone down the shine [14].

Measurement of the blazer
A blazer jacket is one of those items that has to fit perfectly. One can get away with wearing a loose-fitting blouse or cardigan because the oversized look is quite trendy, but when it comes to blazer jackets, he or she needs to be fitted exactly to the body measurements [15]. Shoulder to shoulder: Place the measuring tape at the corner of one shoulder and pull across to the other shoulder. This is an important measurement as some people typically wear the same size but have different shoulder width.

Size of blazer template
Upper arm width: Place the measuring tape in the middle of the upper arm and measure from one side of the sleeve to the other. This measurement is important when it comes to bicep size.
Forearm width: Place the measuring tape in the middle of the forearm and measure from one side of the sleeve across to the other.
Chest width: Measure from the bottom of one armhole across the chest to the bottom of the opposite armhole.
Waist width: Place the measuring tape where the natural waist would fall, usually a bit lower than half way down the blazer, and measure from one side of the jacket across to the other.

Fabrication
Fabric type of blazer: Synthetic twill fabric.

Cutting
Cutting is one of the major process in garments manufacturing. Here garments parts are cutting according to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process flow chart have to maintained to send the right measurement parts in the next process for making quality garments[20].

Figure 14
Cutting room flow chart

Sewing sequence for blazer
In garment industry; CAD system is used for cut the pattern. After passing the cutting section, different parts of the blazer are sent to the sewing section for assembling this. After sewing and final inspection by the quality control it is ready for sale in the market. Figure 15 Sewing sequence of the blazer

Operation breakdown
Breakdown is a listing of the content of a job by elements [21] [22]. A garment consists of some parts and some group of operations. Breakdown means to write down all parts and all process/ operation after one another lying with the complete garment according to process sequence.

Seam Slippage
Seam slippage is a fabric problem especially for fabrics that contain slippery yarns or that have an open structure or where the number of warp and weft interlacing is low. Such factors mean that one set of yarns may be easily pulled through the other. Seam slippage is the condition where a seam sewn in the fabric opens under load. Some of this gap may close on removal of the load but some of it may be a permanent deformation. This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns, or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam.

Procedure of Seam Slippage Test
The British Standard test for seam slippage is a test of the second type. Five warp and five weft specimens each 100mm X 350mm are used. Each sample is folded 100mm from one end and a seam is sewed 20mm from the fold line using the special sewing thread and sewing machine settings which are detailed in the standard. The layout of the sample is shown in Fig. After sewing the folded part of the fabric is cut away 12mm from the fold line leaving the seam 8mm from the cut edge. A standard strength tester equipped with 25mm grab test jaws is used, the gauge length being set to 75 mm.
Just before the test the sample is cut into two parts one with the seam and one without but with each part containing the same set of warp or weft threads. The sample without a seam is first stretched in the tensile tester up to a load of 200N and a force elongation curve drawn. The matching sample with the seam is then tested in the same way making sure that the force elongation curve starts from the same zero position. In order to find the force required to open the seam a given distance, the separation of the curves at a force of 5 N is measured and this distance is added to the seam opening specified (usually 6mm but some specifications require 5 mm) making appropriate allowance for the horizontal scale of the chart. Next the point on the curves where there is a separation of this distance is located and the value of load at this point is read off the chart.

Figure 16
Slippage test

Result
If the curves do not reach the specified separation below 20ON then the result is recorded as 'more than 200N'.

Discussion
Warp setting parameters do not have a sufficient influence on the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics. The weave of fabric and weft setting parameters have a substantial influence on the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics.

Procedure of the testing
To determine the seam strength of the sewn seams under transverse loading condition, an Instron Tensile Testing machine of CRE type is used .The full load of the cell range 100 kg is used with 8cm per min traversing speed, the distance between jaws is 6 cm, the size of the jaws are 5cm * 4cm. The method of the fixing test specimen in the jaws are shown in the following fig.15 Figure 17 Seam strength test

Result
The breaking strength and breaking behavior of each specimen is observed and recorded which is shown in the table

Tensile strength
Tensile strength of the fabric means the strength along the warp-wise or weft-wise direction of the fabric. The textile fibers are anisotropic in nature, as the yarn is made of fibers and fabric is made of yarn, so the anisotropic behavior of fibers is clearly visible in the fabric. The tensile strength of fabric plays an important role in the quality of end product to be produced from it. Good tensile strength relates to the good life of fabric. So the tensile strength of fabric is checked after each chemical process and especially after the weaving process before any chemical treatment.  The results show that the warp-wise tensile strength of the fabric is more than that of the weft-wise tensile strength of the fabric. There are many factors responsible for this:

Observations & Calculations
• The warp yarn has size material on it applied during the weaving preparation process, while weft yarn has no size material. • The ends/inch of the fabric is more than that of picks/inch of the fabric.

Color fastness to rubbing
Color fastness to rubbing is the resistance ti fading of dyed Textiles when rubbed against a rough surface.

Sample preparation
A 10cm×4 cm dyed sample to be test is cut out. There are two types of adjacent fabrics, single fiber fabric and multiple fiber fabric. In the case of multi fibre fabric only one specimen, 6 types of fibers side by side, is required and in the case of single fibre fabric two adjacent fabrics are required.
Another two pieces of fabric sample which are scoured, bleached and undyed sample of 5cm× 4cm sample also taken. Now the tested sample is placed between two places of undyed fabric measuring, 5 cm× 4 cm and there pieces are held together by stitching round the edges leaving 5 cm× 4 cm exposed.
The composition of one of the colour less materials enclosing the specimen will be the same as the dyed sample and the other will be as indicated.

Color fastness to wash test
The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material to washing is referred to as its wash fastness. If dye molecules have not penetrated inside the inter polymer chain space of fiber or have not attached to the fire with strong attractive force, poor wash fastness result.

Working procedure
Cut a specimen into 10cm*4 cm from bulk and make sure all colors are included in it.
Sewing the specimen with multi fiber fabric with same size along all four edges.
Making the solution of 5 gm per 200 ml distilled water. HDC, bleaching and others chemicals may be used.
Putting the solution, steel ball, specimen with multi fiber fabric onto the container. Steel ball dia is 0.6 cm and 30 balls are used.
Set the container with above materials into washing machine.
Switch on the washing machine and rinse the temperature during washing at 100°c and fixed it till 30 minutes.
After that remove specimen at the end of the wash and rinse twice for 1 minute in two separate 100 ml of water at 40°c.
Then squeezing with cold water of the sample is done by hand wash.
Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 60° c.
After that stitching is broken out from all edges which done with multi fibber fabric.
At last measuring the staining and color change by grey scale and make a test report.

Button Pull Test
Actually "Button Pull Test" is used to determine the pulling strength of any type of snaps used in garments for producing goods. Mainly it used to determine the holding or breaking strength of prong-ring attached snap fasteners onto garments to ensure button fixed on the product properly.
Consist of an upper snap clamp, a lower fabric & force gauge mounted on a stand. The pull test is the mandatory for any type of garments product use button.

Procedure for Button Pull Test
Mainly for pull test you will always need to follow the buyer requirement for pulling strength. If a buyer does not give any requirement. So, you can follow own your company's procedure.
The standard procedure is continued pulling 15 (Second) in 93.4 /no. weight for all attaching component kike button, rivet, eyelet, snap etc.
If any item they fail, then that should be removed from production & speared as a reject.
"Pull test should be done five pieces from each style 2 time every day & keep record & documents for everyday"

Conclusion
Blazer is the world's most demanding and costly clothing. This aristocratic costume is an interest for both men and women. That is why the research mostly focuses on making blazers exportable in vast amounts in the world involved in the maker of clothes. This would increase our export value and enhance our economic status. Our goal is to provide the basic details on blazer industry with line balancing, job studies, time analysis and blazer production process. We based on the necessity of machinery, textiles, and clothing and blazer accessories during our project. We have even tried to measure around SMV for blazer production. By different tests including seam strength, seam slippage test and tensile strength test of the garments, we have determined the consistency of the fabric.
We attempted to gather original knowledge to complete the report during the entire study period. We didn't receive all details because of some restriction, but we think that future research will come very soon on this topic Compliance with ethical standards